Via Bike Exif; If you’ve ever wondered what it’s like to ride through
Patagonia, the experience can best be described as an adventure of a
lifetime. Here’s an article about the experience provided by Compass Expeditions, the specialist motorcycle tours company.
Patagonia is one of the world’s must-see destinations, known for its
breathtaking scenery and unique ecosystem. And the best way to see it
is from the saddle of a motorbike. Always ready for an adventure, I
joined the knowledgeable and friendly team who run Compass Expeditions
for a 17-day ride through Chile and Argentina. They call it the
Patagonian Explorer tour for good reason: much of the countryside we
rode through is untamed. It makes you really feel like you’re blazing
uncharted territory aboard your supplied BMW F650 GS.
Our group gathered in Santiago, Chile to get acquainted. The ride
started in Pucón, about 450 miles south of the capital city. It ended
2,100 miles later in legendary Ushuaia, recognized as the southernmost
city in the world. Patagonia is a region that covers roughly 260,000
square miles—it extends from the southern part of Buenos Aires Province
to the tip of Tierra del Fuego, and as we discovered, it’s a land of
desolate beauty and very sparse population. To the west are the
Cordillera de los Andes and vast expanse of the Southern Patagonian Ice
Field. East of the cordillera is semi-arid plateau that’s dominated by
a low scrub called jarilla.
Patagonia’s climate is very changeable. But fortune smiled on us, as
we experienced near-perfect spring weather throughout our travels (the
South American spring is September to November). On average,
temperatures ranged from mid-70s F in the north to low 50s in the south
(although it did get cooler, at times dipping down to 40 degrees.) Wind
is also a fact of life in Patagonia. It was an almost constant
companion as we rode across the steppe. We saw many signs along the
road showing a tree bending in a strong breeze.
A large part of our ride was along Argentina’s famous Ruta Nacional
40. This is the route that Che Guevara took in 1952 on his Norton 500,
documenting the trip in his book The Motorcycle Diaries. Ruta
40 runs more than 3,000 miles, roughly paralleling the eastern spine of
the Andes. A good portion of the road surface is gravel, ideal for dirt
biking. Long straight stretches carve through sweeping vistas of stark
post-glacial landscape. Once we crossed the Strait of Megellan from
Chile into Tierra del Fuego, Argentina, we followed Ruta Nacional 3.
Part of the Pan-American Highway, this well-paved road cuts through
mountain passes and spectacular scenery for the last 60 miles into
Ushuaia.
Along the route we were treated to a variety of specially
hand-picked accommodations that added to the enjoyment of the whole
experience. We bedded down in boutique hotels and unique hostels and
spent a couple of nights in a classic estancia (ranch). Of
course, we all consumed a hearty share of South American food and
drink. Asado or traditional BBQ is common fare and South American
wines, especially, are among the best in the world.
Highlights are too many to mention, but two in particular stand out.
Parque Nacional los Glacieras is located in Argentina’s Santa Cruz
Province and Perito Moreno Glacier is one of its star attractions.
That’s no mean feat since there are 47 glaciers in the park. I wasn’t
quite prepared for the blueness of Moreno’s ice or its sheer size (3
miles wide and 20 miles long). For a change of pace, we camped in
geodesic dome tents at Torres del Paine National Park. UNESCO declared
it a World Biosphere Reserve in 1978.
Arriving at the park, we were greeted by throngs of grazing
guanacos. These relatives of the camel are on the protected species
list and roam freely. Only two of us embarked on an 8-hour roundtrip
climb to see the Paine massif up close. The long trek was well worth
the impressive view of the famed Los Cuernos and the emerald lake
beneath them.
For me, riding through the wildness of Patagonia was mesmerizing. I left knowing that I’d go back in an instant.—Adrian Blake
For more details about motorcycle tours in South American, contact Compass Expeditions.
